The difference between this draft and its so recently deceased ancestor is I think less rambling. More to the point. There has been a lot of beautiful scenery seen and gorges explored but it all seems to get a bit repetitive after a while. I give you a name of a different place and tell you the same thing about how beautiful and remote and awesome it is. But no more. Interesting places that you aren't going to see most anywhere else in the world. Interesting people! Plus maybe a story or two. Here goes nothing.
Exmouth: same as all the other beaches plus windier. How's that for brevity? Moving on.
Coral Bay: favorite beach so far. Less wind. Great day. Nothing too exciting though. Lyndon River, Carnarvon, Whalebone Bay. Boring boring boring. Blowholes: ooo that was a fun place. Really neat rocky/craggy coastline with holes in the rocks where water would shoot out of like a rocket up into the sky so high. I got out of the van and looked at the treacherous rocky terrain that needed to be crossed to get to the blowholes and I looked at my sandaled feet and I told myself “Brian be very careful. With all the walking and exploring you still need to do it wouldn't do to cut up one of your footsies.” And what did I do with my very very very first step after thinking that? I'm not kidding it was absolutely the first movement I made from standing by the car thinking that. I crushed my left foot into a nice big rock. Blood everywhere. Whole big scene. Good work Brian. Anyways, the blowholes were still cool. I have tons of pictures on that link on the side of the blog I keep mentioning.
Mmmm onto Monkey Mia. Dolphin feeding central of Shark Bay. Every morning 5 mama dolphins swim on in to get a little morning snackeroo from the helpful rangers. For a couple hours that morning we had 10 or so (5 mamas and their little baby dolphins with them) dolphins wandering about in the water less than 15m offshore from us. During one of the feeding sessions I got to feed a little fish to a bossy/moody mama dolphin Nikki. Very cool. We also learned about dolphin life. The alliances created among males. How the mother leads her newborn up to the surface and teaches her to breathe. The gang rapes that go on when the alliances of males kidnap a fertile female. Very kid friendly material here.
After that we hit up Hamelin pool on our way out of Shark Bay. Hamelin pool is home of the world reknown Stromatolites. Living fossils! Rocks that breathe! Whatever you want to call them they are some of the oldest organisms. They were around when the atmosphere was so deficient in oxygen that most all of us oxygen dependent animals couldn't survive. These boring little rocks sat in tidepools billions of years ago quietly bubbling up little bits of O2 until the atmosphere was ripe for breathing. We appreciate it Stromatolites but trying to see you in the choppy water on a windy/rainy day was just not my cup of tea. Maybe next time.
Moving on to I would have to say the most outrageous stop so far. Welcome to the Hutt River Province Principality. Way back in 1970. A man named Leonard got fed up with paying taxes and the Aussie government and all that. So in response, he found a neat little loophole that no one (even Prince Leonard himself) will actually explain to me that allowed him to legally secede from Australia. So now almost 40 years later he is owner to his own little 5 acre nation in the middle of Western Australia. Second largest country on the Australian continent. What I love about Leonard and his nation is he totally went with it. He didn't just secede and go on living life like normal. He created a flag and a constitution and currency and stamps and even an army. All of this is mostly ceremonial and it's just fun for us passerbyers to purchase all the notes of his currency for $4AUD. The prince gave us a private tour of our land and stamped our passports as we entered and exited his principality. He is a very quirky and energetic old man. So proud of what he did and how he outsmarted them all. Loves to show you maps of the world with huge cities like Melbourne or Sydney are not even mentioned but the Hutt River Principality is listed quite clearly. We only hung around the Province for an hour or two but it was definitely one of the more memorable experiences traveling abroad so far.
The next day after tearfully saying goodbye to the Prince, we wandered our way into Kalbarri national park where we did the usual beaches and gorges that I am not going to get into except to say I did a nice little 16km jog along the cliffs in Kalbarri which was pretty exciting and scary. Lots of loose rocks with lots of edges to fall of the face of the Earth into. I felt like I was playing Mario Kart. Moving along at breakneck speeds with incredible blue waters all around but way below me with only a meter or so of dirt separating me from a big big drop. Anyways my fav part of Kalbarri was the Seahorse Sanctuary. They raise and breed seahorses to sell them as pets to reduce the pressure to fish for seahorses from the wild to serve as pets. Just because that isn't a great practice cuz the horses from the ocean usually don't survive reacclimating to tank life. They argue that this seahorse farm is a much more humane way to go about the situation. Anyways we got to see seahorses in all the stages of their lives. They start out so so so sos small. There was a sweet video of a daddy horse giving birth to his little tiny children. Just popping them out one after the other. All in all it was another place that I don't think you can find many other places in the world.
Geraldton: biggest city we have seen since Darwin. A whole 26k odd population. Really unfortunate that everything was closed since it was Sunday. Bad form Geraldton. Not even a supermarket open on the holy day of rest. All I wanted was a supermarket and a bookstore. What they did have is a nice museum focusing on aboriginal history, HMAS Sydney, and the Batavia catastrophe. We watched a full 50 minute video reenactment of the Batavia's story. So much intrigue. Shipwreck, survival, treachery, mutiny, heroism, terrorism, rescues and swordfighting, romance, sorrow, horror. What else could you want? Real actors? Nah who needs those? It was a lot of fun all around. One of the better museums I have seen out here. Beats out that disgrace for a powerhouse museum in Sydney.
Finally Yanchep National Park was the last fun spot we hit up before rolling into Perth. I loved me that park for its super cool caves. There was a whole network of them. All I really wanted to do was turn off all the lights down there and go down with just a headlamp and get all lost in the passages. Hopefully run into all the spirits like the Jinka that aboriginal lore says is down there.
So that's a nice recap of the last week or so. I am in Perth now for another five days before I am back to the west coast. I am about to go take a shower now. My second since I wrote that last blog post. Ewww. Ok im out. Peace. Love. And all that Good Stuff.
Lindy